How to Use a Skew Chisel on a Wood Lathe (Without the Catches)

We research products independently. When you buy through links on this page, we may earn a commission from Amazon at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Read our affiliate disclosure.

To use a skew chisel, rest it on the tool rest with the bevel rubbing the wood, angle the edge across the spinning work, and lift the handle until the lower-middle part of the edge starts to slice a thin shaving. Keep both points clear of the wood and travel downhill, from larger diameter to smaller. Done right, the skew planes a spindle so cleanly that it barely needs sanding.

The skew has a reputation for catches, and it earns it when the wrong part of the edge touches the wood. This guide covers what the skew does, how to set up, five core cuts step by step, why catches happen and how to sharpen a skew.

What is a skew chisel?

A skew is a flat chisel ground with two bevels and an edge set at an angle to the tool's sides. The corner at the top of the angle is the long point (toe); the lower corner is the short point (heel). It is a spindle tool, used where the grain runs along the lathe bed, for:

• planing cuts that smooth a cylinder or long curve;
• V-cuts and grooves made with the long point;
• beads rolled with the heel or the long point;
• clean cuts across end grain;
• pommels, the transitions from square to round.

What you need

• A skew chisel, 3/4 or 1 inch wide for general spindle work. Rectangular, oval and rolled-edge skews all work; Robert Sorby's 810H-1 has slightly rolled edges meant to help it slide on the rest.
• A sharp edge, honed flat on both bevels (see sharpening below).
• A spindle blank roughed to a cylinder with a spindle roughing gouge.
• A full face shield and the usual wood lathe safety rules.

Setup before the first cut

1. Rough the blank round. The skew is not a roughing tool on square stock for beginners. Our spindle turning guide covers roughing.
2. Set the tool rest close and a little higher than for a gouge. A planing cut happens on the upper part of the cylinder, so the rest usually sits nearer center height. Rotate the work by hand to check clearance. Our lathe tool rest height guide explains why rest height changes per tool.
3. Choose a moderate speed. WEN's lathe manual says the speed can be increased once the work is roughed to a cylinder and you move to smoothing with the skew. Stay within the AAW's spindle speed chart for the diameter.
4. Stand comfortably and keep the tool's handle supported against your body or forearm.

How to use a skew chisel: 5 core cuts

1. The planing cut

This is the skew's signature cut and the one to master first.

1. Lay the skew flat on the rest, above the work, with the edge angled across the cylinder and the heel leading in the direction you want to cut.
2. Slide it down until the bevel rubs the wood. No cutting yet.
3. Slowly lift the handle until the lower-middle part of the edge starts to cut. WEN's manual says to use only the center third of the cutting edge for a long smoothing cut.
4. Keep the long point clear of the wood, above the cut.
5. Traverse along the rest at an even pace, keeping the bevel in contact. The shaving should come off as a thin ribbon.
6. Work downhill, from larger to smaller diameter, and switch hands to cut the other direction.

If the surface is torn, the edge is dull or you are cutting uphill. If it chatters, slow your feed and check the rest is close.

2. The V-cut

1. Hold the skew on edge, with the long point down, on the rest.
2. Mark the center of the V lightly with the long point.
3. Move to one side of the mark, angle the tool so its bevel is parallel to that side of the V, raise the handle and push the long point in. WEN's manual describes this sequence.
4. Repeat from the other side so the two cuts meet cleanly at the bottom.
5. Take more cuts from each side to widen or deepen the V.

3. Rolling a bead

1. Make two V-cuts or parting cuts to mark the bead's edges.
2. Start at the top center of the bead with the skew nearly flat and the heel cutting.
3. Roll the tool toward the V while lifting the handle, so the bevel stays in contact and the heel follows the curve down.
4. Repeat from the other side. Take light cuts until the bead is round.

Beads with a skew take practice; a spindle gouge is an easier way to learn them. See our best spindle gouges.

4. End grain and squaring shoulders

1. Hold the skew on edge with the long point down.
2. Present the bevel almost parallel to the end you are cutting, angled very slightly away from it.
3. Push the long point in gently while raising the handle. Only the point should cut; the bevel keeps the edge from running.

This leaves a clean, burnished end that sanding cannot match.

5. Pommels (square to round)

Mark the transition, then use the long point, on edge, to nick into the corners of the square stock. Widen the cut in small V-steps until the round section is fully below the corners. Go slowly: the edges of the square hit the tool intermittently.

Why skew chisels catch

WEN's troubleshooting table lists dull tools, a rest set too low or too far from the work, and the wrong tool as the causes of tools that grab or dig in. Those apply doubly to the skew.

How to sharpen a skew chisel

1. Use a flat platform or a skew jig, such as Oneway's 2690 for the Wolverine, so the edge stays at its angle to the wheel.
2. Grind one bevel until a burr forms along the whole edge.
3. Flip and grind the other side with the same number of passes.
4. Hone both bevels flat on a diamond plate or leather wheel.

Robert Sorby's ProEdge guide lists 15 degrees per side for skews. Keep both bevels equal and the edge straight, or slightly curved if your skew is ground that way. A belt sharpener or wet stone makes flat bevels easy. Our how to sharpen lathe tools guide covers the setup.

Common skew chisel mistakes

• Cutting with the long point during a planing cut. It catches and spirals.
• Starting the cut without bevel contact. Rub first, then lift.
• Cutting uphill. Go from large to small diameter.
• A dull or unevenly ground edge. The skew needs to be sharper than any other tool.
• Using a narrow skew for long planing cuts. A 1-inch skew is more stable.
• Rest too low or too far. Keep it close and near center for planing.

FAQ

Next steps

Practice the planing cut on a few pine or poplar cylinders before moving to beads. Our best lathe chisels guide covers skew sizes and profiles, and our parting tool guide covers the sizing cuts that usually go with skew work.